Install Irrigation Materials

Review your irrigation system plan thoroughly to get reacquainted with the plan and its components.

• Also, reread the section of this guide that pertains to developing an irrigation system plan. A short refresher course now may save time and effort later.
• Take your plan to an irrigation supply store and ask for help with selecting the equipment. Take this guide along to show them the construction details for the backflow preventer and irrigation valves.
• If possible, purchase all of the irrigation system components at the same time. Don't forget smaller items like pipe cutters, TeflonTM tape, primer, glue and temporary marking paint.
• Buy extra irrigation line and fittings to handle unexpected problems.
• Before digging, mark the locations of all irrigation lines and valves with temporary marking paint. This will provide a visual layout for the work ahead.
• Now is the time to make any changes to your irrigation system design to properly route the irrigation lines. If you do make changes, revise your irrigation plan accordingly.

Backflow prevention assemblies are required for all irrigation systems regardless of size. The purpose of these devices is to prevent contaminated water from getting into the drinking water system.

If you need to install a backflow preventer, it is necessary to obtain a plumbing permit and follow all city code requirements. If you haven't done so already, call your city for permit information.

To ensure proper installation that will pass a city inspection, it is recommended that you hire a contractor to install this irrigation system component.

Below are some guidelines that your contractor should follow during the installation process.

The valve, filter and pressure regulator are typically located inside a valve box that is usually placed near the backflow preventer.

• Do not put too many valves in one valve box. Two valves per box is recommended. Leave enough room in each valve box to allow yourself to work comfortably with the valves and wires and to easily remove and replace the filter later on during routine maintenance.
• For aesthetic and practical reasons, it is better to place valve boxes below ground, making the top of each valve box about two inches above grade (this will put valve boxes at ground level after the top dressing has been installed).
• After determining the best place for the valve box, dig out the area adequately so that the top of the valve box will rest at grade (it will be raised above grade later on during the installation process).
• Because the system will experience higher pressure before the valve, schedule 40 PVC pipe should be used between a PVB or RP backflow preventer assembly and the valve.
• After the control valves are installed, attach a filter and a pressure regulator to each one.
• Wrap a small amount of Teflon tape around all threaded fittings to help lubricate and seal them. Make sure all fittings are good and tight.
• With the valves installed, it is now time to place the box over the valves. You may have to cut additional holes in the sides of each box to allow for proper location of the pipe/poly tubing.
• Place bricks or blocks strategically under the edges of each box to provide stability. This should raise your box two inches above grade.
• Be sure the box is level; then replace soil around the outside edges of the box. Cover excess openings around pipes with fabric or tape to keep soil from entering the box.
• Fill the bottom of each valve box with one to two inches of gravel to promote drainage and to avoid muddy conditions inside the box.

If you are using PVC pipe, make sure the pipe and fittings are clean.

• Then apply a light, even coat of primer and glue to both the pipe and the fitting. After connecting the pipe and fitting, wipe off any excess glue. Allow the glue to set for twenty-four hours before pressure testing for leaks.
• Poly tubing has a tendency to roll back on itself. If you are using poly tubing rather than pipe, allow the tubing to warm in the sun. It will become softer and easier to work with. To hold the tubing in place, put some soil back in the trench (spot backfilling) about every five feet.
• If a common trench is used, consider painting each pipe or poly line a different color to identify the type of plant or planting area each line waters. Colors should correspond with those used on your irrigation plan.
• Leave fittings exposed so they can be pressure tested for leaks.
• Flush the lines before installing emitters.
• Open one flush cap at a time and let each valve run for about two minutes.
• Do not exceed 200 feet of poly tubing from the valve to the flush cap.
• Do not exceed a total flow of 200 gallons per hour (gph) per valve.
• Micro tubing that exceeds six feet in length is NOT recommended.

Emitter Placement

• Emitter tubing outlets should be placed between one and three inches above the ground. Proper placement will allow you to observe the wetting pattern for each plant and will reduce the likelihood that dirt from the surrounding area will clog the tubing.
• Emitters can be placed directly into the poly tubing or anywhere along the micro tubing as long as the tubing outlets are above ground.
• Above-ground emitters are easier to maintain, whereas underground emitters cannot be chewed by rodents.

Indoor controllers plug into electrical outlets whereas outdoor controllers have wires that run directly to the breaker box.

• Do NOT mount indoor controllers outside.
• If possible, mount the controller in a shady location.
• Danger: There is live voltage electricity in the circuit breaker box. All 110-volt electrical work must be done by a licensed electrician. A permit may be required by your city.
• It is recommended that you connect the controller to its own dedicated breaker. Do not connect the controller to a GFI (ground fault interrupt) circuit.
• Irrigation controllers must be properly grounded. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
• Use "direct burial wires" or an irrigation controller cable. The cable has color coded wires to make it easy to match the valves to the proper stations in the controller. For most residential irrigation systems, 18-gauge wire is acceptable.
• Wire expands and contracts with changes in weather. Leave some slack in the wire when running it from the controller to the valves. It also is a good idea to coil some wire at the end of each connection to give you ample wire to work with in the future, when it's time for maintenance or repairs.
• Connect the wire to the valves with waterproof connectors.
• If wire is being placed in the same trench with the irrigation lines, protect it from damage during installation and future repairs by tucking it under the lines.